Resawing implies cutting a thick piece of given wood into thinner slices. A bandsaw is undoubtedly the most appropriate tool for such a job and also safer than using a table saw.
Its constricted kerf with vertical movement of its blade makes it exceptionally efficient. It causes minimum wastage of material. Cutting is fast and easy. You just cut along straight lines, making it necessary to have a board which has one square side and an edge.
Metal Cutting
Unfortunately, majority of woodworkers don't seem to be aware of how to go ahead with it. Successful resawing necessarily demands a suitable blade selection, sufficient tension, right operational level, and the right stock control.
Selection of Blade: When you saw a thick stock the blade is subjected to much of pressure, with each of its teeth shaving and throwing out waste. Using a blade with three teeth to an inch (TPI) has large gullets to facilitate plenty of waste.
The blade is supported on its top and bottom on thrust bearings. During the real process of cutting it's only the stiffness or the "beam strength" of blade that keeps the cut going straight and prevents its drift. I realized that a good quality blade of half inch, 3-teeth offers good results, though I did try wider blades without any increased efficiency.
Tension: sufficient blade tension ensures that your blade doesn't move erratically under pressure. As a typical tension gauge doesn't give really accurate results, it's better to have slightly additional tension than it indicates.
You can verify that by opening the lateral guides and thrust bearings. Back off the two below and above the table thus disabling them to remain in contact with the blade. Next, crank the tension gauge for getting the needed setting. Push the blade sideways by nearly midway between the lower and upper wheels. Now the blade would easily turn aside for a little length. The movement to sideways should be quarter inch. On being pushed harder, this will bend more but quarter inch is a distinctive point at which it won't deflect easily. In case you are able to deflect it more than a quarter inch, add more tension till the deflection equals quarter of an inch.
Stock Control: Any superior bandsaw blade is designed to cut across straight lines. Yet, each blade does that in its characteristic way. That's because each blade acquires its exclusive "lead angle". So, how can one find out this exclusive lead angle?
Many suggest referring to some Resaw Guide. It's like one point that enables you to alter your feed angle your to the blade. One takes time getting used to this method. Additionally, it demands steady attention.
Having once determined the right direction for feed, adjust the fence of bandsaw accordingly and keep cutting straight lines.
See that the fence as well the blade are at 90-degree to table. Choose a section of straight wood, of up to three feet length. Draw a line in the center. Cut by hand down the line, while maintaining the cut along the center line. Keep feeding at the usual speed. Once you get it straight, clutch the wooden peace on the table. Switch off the machine. You already got the desired lead angle of this blade!
Using a pencil draw a line straight on the table of bandsaw along the length of wood. With the help of a wrench loosen the bolts on the fence. Adjust angle on the fence alongside the pencil mark of the cut. Tighten the bolts. Now the fence is ready for the right lead angle of your blade. It delivers straight cuts. Fix it once once and keep going.
For practicing feed speed you draw a straight line over the planned cut for lot many boards initially. It simply gives you confidence that you are cutting straight.
This method enables you to gain lots of confidence. With a bit of practice, you won't go wrong. You will find resawing quite fun but keep safety in mind!