How to Replace T-111 Siding and Trim on a Chimney

If you have ever lived in a home with T-111 siding, you have probably experienced wood rot. There are two leading causes of wood rot on T-111. The first is the paint drying out and absorbing moisture. The second is water finding an entrance due to a caulk joint failure. This occurs around windows, doors and at the seams. The steps listed below are what to look for and how to repair it. This article is specific to a chimney repair but can be applied to other areas. In this specific repair, we will be replacing the T-111 with a Hardie type panel and trim.

Metal Cutting

1. First, inspect the chimney. More than likely the bottom of the T-111, where the panel meets the roof deck, will be suspect. Poke around the perimeter with a screw driver to determine the extent of any damage. At this stage, you can only find what you can see on the surface.

Metal Cutting

2. Remove the nails on the metal chimney cap with a flat pry bar. Try not to damage the chimney cap as we will be reinstalling it later.

3. Remove the screws from the chimney cap flame arrestor. Remove the arrestor and set aside.

4. Remove the chimney cap and set aside.

5. With your pry bar and hammer, remove the trim boards and discard.

6. Remove the nails in the T-111 with your hammer and nail puller.

7. Remove the T-111 and discard.

At this point you should be looking at the wood framing and the chimney vent pipe. Now you can inspect the framing and a portion of the roof decking for additional damage. If you have wood framing, roof sheeting, or metal flashing that has been damaged due to water intrusion, now is the time to replace these items.

If you do not see damage you can start the rebuild process.

8. About an inch and a half up from the roof deck, apply a bead of roofing sealant to the metal flashing.

9. Wrap the chimney framing with a quality house wrap. Make sure the bottom edge is pressed firmly onto the bead of roofing cement. Secure the house wrap to the wood frame with button cap nails or staples. Make sure all the seams are sealed with tape designed for house wrap.

10.You are now ready to cut your siding and trim. Once you have made your panel cuts, you are ready to secure it to the frame. Put a thick bead of roofing cement approximately one inch up from the bottom of the panel. This will form a water tight seal. Paint all cut edges with primer or exterior paint.

11. Install the panels to the manufacturer's specifications.

12. Paint the panels before you secure the trim.

13. Paint the trim boards prior to cutting them. This makes the finished product look much nicer.

14. After the paint has dried, cut the trim boards to fit. Paint all cut edges to seal them.

15. Install the trim boards to the manufacturer's specifications.

16. Caulk all seams and nail holes with an exterior sealant.

17. Re-install the chimney cap and arrestor. Apply sealant to the nail heads.

18. Touch up the paint and you are done!

How to Replace T-111 Siding and Trim on a Chimney
Metal Cutting

Christmas Sales Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) 201

Dec 08, 2011 22:13:43

Christmas Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Deals
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Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery)

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Christmas Sales Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Feature

  • Cuts all types of metals such as uni-strut, galvanized pipe and metal studs
  • 3,200 RPM and 2-1/8-inch maximum depth of cut
  • Clear guard provides an excellent line of sight for cutting
  • Rugged construction for long, trouble-free operation
  • Limited warranty


Christmas Sales Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Overview

Tool includes: 6 7/8" blade. However 6 1/2" blade also work fine with this circular saw. Metal Cutting Saw, 6320-20, cuts all types of metals such as uni-strut, galvanized pipe, metal studs and black pipe, as well as Hardi-Plank and Durock materials. The saw uses a standard 5/8 in. arbor and has a 2-1/8 in. maximum depth of cut. The blade spins at 3,200 RPM and has an electric brake for quick, repetitive cutting. The clear guard provides an excellent line of sight for cutting and the rugged construction provides long, trouble-free operation.

Christmas Sales Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Specifications

Metal’s no challenge for this little Milwaukee brute, slicing quickly through everything we put it to: unhardened ferrous metal, non-ferrous metal, plastics and cement board. Power is plentiful, with an 18-volt battery juicing the blade’s 3,200 rpm. We were surprised at how quickly the electric brake halts the blade, too: In our very unscientific test, it was about a second and a half, great for repetitive cuts and even more important for safety. The blade guard is clear, and you do get a great sightline because of it, but it is plastic, and we didn’t want to take our chances slamming it around the warehouse to see what kind of impact it would withstand. A little care is a small price for a much-improved view, we think. It’s lighter than we expected by the rugged look of it, so it handles beautifully, and the ergonomic D-handle grip feels great. If you’re in plumbing, construction, maintenance or even fire and rescue, you ought to have this saw.--Kris Jensen-Van Heste

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Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery)

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