Freud D1296N Diablo 12-Inch 96 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor

Special Price!!! Freud D1296N Diablo 12-Inch 96 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor

Nov 09, 2011 08:06:06

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Freud D1296N Diablo 12-Inch 96 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor Feature

• Laser cut stabilizer vents trap noise and vibration keeping it cool and reducing blade warp
• Laser cut heat expansion slots allow blade to expand due to heat build-up keeping the cut true and straight
• Durable micrograin titanium carbide for extreme durability, razor-sharp cuts, and long life
• Tri-metal shock resistant brazing allows carbide tips to withstand extreme impact for maximum durability
• Laser cut arbor for accurate blade rotation reducing vibration and premature wear

Freud D1296N Diablo 12-Inch 96 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor Overview

12" x 96 Tooth, Diablo Ultra Fine/non Ferrous Metal Blade, Red Perma Shield Coating, Stabilizer Vents, Carbide Tipped, Thin Kerf Design.

Freud D1296N Diablo 12-Inch 96 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Miter Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor Specifications

For a high-impact blade that makes clean cuts in plastics and non-ferrous metals, look no further than the Freud D1296N Diablo 12-Inch Non-Ferrous Metals and Plastics Saw Blade. Thanks to its proprietary TCG (triple-chip grind) teeth, this is your go-to blade for slicing through plastic structures and non-ferrous metals such as copper pipes, aluminum extrusions, and brass plates.

Model # D1296N Diameter 12" Machine Use Miter & Slide Miter Saw Application Non-Ferrous Metals/Plastics Teeth 96 TCG (Triple-Chip Grind) Arbor 1" Kerf .091" Hook Angle -5°

Makes Clean, Razor-Sharp Cuts in Plastic and Non-Ferrous Metals
Achieving premium results when working with plastics and non-ferrous metals is all about clean, accurate cuts. The Freud D1296N makes this process easy, fast, and precise. Constructed for making flawless crosscuts, this blade's proprietary TCG (triple-chip grind) teeth leave a clean, burr-free finish.

Contractors, construction workers, and avid do-it-yourselfers will want to keep this blade on hand for jobs that call for slicing through plastic structures and non-ferrous metal pipes, extrusions, and plates. Appropriate application materials include copper, aluminum, brass, and plastic.

Produces Smooth, Quiet Cuts with Laser-Cut Kerf
The Freud D1296N's clean-cutting design means that you can enjoy the comfort of smooth performance. The thin 0.091-inch kerf between the blade's 96 TCG (triple-chip grind) teeth is laser cut to provide ease of feed, so you have more control over the blade's position. This helps maximize both the accuracy of the cut and the efficiency of your work, so you enjoy a job well done and the ability to complete more tasks in less time.

An added bonus, the blade's laser-cut stabilizer vents reduce noise and vibration during operation, keeping your work environment more relaxed and your hands more in control. This feature also reduces friction and warping, helping to extend the blade's cutting life.

Features Shock-Resistant Carbide for Long-Lasting Precision
So you can count on it over the long term, the Freud D1296N is designed for durability. The blade's hardy teeth are protected by Freud's exclusive shock-resistant TiCo Hi-Density Carbide formula, which helps fight wear and tear and maintains blade sharpness up to four times longer than standard carbide. And protecting the blade is Perma-Shield Non-Stick Coating that provides resistance to heat and corrosion.

Fits Miter Saws
The Freud D1296N is a great addition to your workshop because it's designed with the versatility to fit a variety of miter saws, including sliding miter saws.

This product is covered by Freud's Limited Lifetime Warranty.

What's in the Box
Freud D1296N Diablo 12-Inch Non-Ferrous Metals and Plastics Saw Blade.

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Oval Window Blinds

Do you want to install an oval window blind at your attic? Perhaps you have an oval window that needs some window treatment. Maybe your window is almost circular in shape. It does not matter. You can still use these blinds.

Metal Cutting

Benefits

Metal Cutting

The greatest benefit of installing oval window blinds is blocking out the day light. At the same time, you don't want anyone else to peek inside your room, do you? Therefore, it serves as a great privacy home improvement tool.

Let's face the facts

It can be really hard to find them, let alone purchasing one. But the good news is, you can always make one yourself. This is called the DIY (do-it-yourself) or customized window blind. In fact, this is how most people install their oval blinds at home.

Here's how you do it

First of all, if you are not a mechanic or a home improvement person, you could always hire someone to do it for you. After all, the cost of an ordinary window blind is not much. You can always purchase a straight and rectangular blind that is made from an easy-to-cut material (plastic, wood or even grade 6 aluminum). Just make sure it is large enough to cover your oval window.

Measure the diameter of your oval window every 1 or 2 inches horizontally. This way, you get a rough idea how much length to leave for when you cut the slats (individual long pieces of the blind) one by one. Using the measurement, cut the slats at both sides equally and accordingly. Do this until your rectangular blind looks like an oval one.

Oval Window Blinds

Metal Cutting

Special Price!!! DEWALT DW7747 14-Inch 70 Tooth Heavy Gauge Ferrous Metal Cutting Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor

Nov 08, 2011 10:13:51

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DEWALT DW7747 14-Inch 70 Tooth Heavy Gauge Ferrous Metal Cutting Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor Feature

• 12% titanium carbide provides long life in metal cutting
• Modified ATB tooth geometry provides clean, burr-free cuts
• Tri-foil braze absorbs stress, making the tip stronger
• Expansion slots dissipate heat which extends blade life
• Backed by a 1-year warranty

DEWALT DW7747 14-Inch 70 Tooth Heavy Gauge Ferrous Metal Cutting Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor Overview

Outfit your DW872 Multi-Cutter Saw for tough metal work applications with this heavy-gauge DeWalt DW7747 14-Inch Ferrous Saw Blade featuring a 1-inch arbor. This 70-tooth blade is capable of making an average of 1,200 cuts in most materials, and it is designed to let you resharpen the teeth for improved cutting and a longer life. It is crafted with 12-percent titanium carbide and features expansion slots that dissipate heat. Plus it offers a tri-foil braze that increases the strength of each tooth's tip for exceptional durability, while a modified triple chip tooth grind helps ensure clean, burr-free cuts for beautiful finished projects.

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Understanding Cut Resistant Gloves

Cut Resistant Gloves

Metal Cutting

Cut and puncture wound hazards in the workplace come from handheld sharp and cutting tools, including scissors, knives, razors, pruners, chisels, and snips, etc. as well as the handling of materials such as metal, glass, and sharp-edged plastics as is found in welding and window and vehicle manufacture. You can use a number of methods to reduce these types of hazards such as training employees to choose, store, and use tools properly and ensuring maintenance and repair of sharp and cutting tools. Another means of protecting employees is personal protective equipment (PPE), namely cut-resistant gloves.

Metal Cutting

The basics

There is really no such thing as a "cut proof" glove. Work gloves can be cut resistant but, with enough pressure, all gloves will allow a sharp-edged object through. Also, how well the glove performs depends on how you maintain the glove, and the manufacturer's recommendations for glove care need to be followed for optimum performance. For example, Kevlar gloves are ideal until you launder them with bleach, which breaks down the fibers.

Work gloves, such as cotton gloves, leather gloves, or Kevlar gloves will provide protection against cuts from sharp tools. Cotton gloves provide minimal protection, while Kevlar or metal mesh gloves provide the most. Thick leather gloves provide medium-range protection. (However, the majority of chemical protective gloves generally provide little or no protection from cuts or punctures.)

When purchasing work gloves to protect from cuts, remember that in order for the glove to be useful, it needs to fit properly. Gloves that are too tight restrict movement; work gloves that are too loose make gripping difficult. Another factor in the selection of cut-resistant work gloves is the environment in which they will be used such as high-heat applications or applications with aggressive chemicals.

Kevlar gloves

Dupont Kevlar® is a man made fiber with a unique combination of properties, one of which is its ability to provide protection from punctures. Kevlar is extraordinarily strong and light, making for work gloves that are flexible and better fitted to the hand than some other types of similar gloves. In addition to cut resistance, Kevlar gloves protect against thermal burn and do not melt or drip around open flame. This makes Kevlar work gloves a good choice in applications where both cut and heat resistance are necessary such as welding and manufacturing facilities such as glass plants and refineries. Kevlar also finds use in automotive manufacturing, lumber falling, law enforcement, veterinary or animal control operations, construction, steel and metal working applications, and garment manufacturing. As noted above, Kevlar can deteriorate if laundered in bleach, therefore, the manufacturer's care instructions should be followed when cleaning Kevlar gloves. In addition to bleach, other chemicals may cause Kevlar gloves to deteriorate, reducing the protection they provide. For this reason, it is important to check the manufacturer's information if Kevlar work gloves will be used in applications with chemicals. In these instances, metal mesh gloves may be a more appropriate selection. Kevlar gloves can be combined with Kevlar sleeves to provide both hand and arm protection.

Metal mesh gloves

Metal mesh gloves are generally made of high-grade, fine stainless steel mesh. One downside of metal mesh gloves is that they may be able to trap soil and feed the growth of bacteria. However, some fairly recent additions to the market are metal mesh gloves that are constructed so that the trapping of soil and the subsequent risk of contamination is reduced. Metal mesh gloves are resistant to water, chemicals, and soiling. In the past, metal mesh gloves were extremely "clunky." However, recent improvements in manufacturing have improved the fit, weight, and comfort of metal mesh gloves-gloves that are ambidextrous are available as well as glove with adjustment that allows for improved fit and comfort. Metal mesh gloves find use in meat and poultry processing, knife and blade sharpening and cleaning, food and restaurant operations, sheet metal work, fishing trades, and woodworking. Because metal readily conducts heat, metal mesh gloves are generally not appropriate for high-heat applications.

Understanding Cut Resistant Gloves

Metal Cutting

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Changing Metal Properties With Heat Treatment

Throughout history people have been creating things from different metals. Presumably the discovery of metal was an accident and probably caused inadvertently when a campfire burnt away some low melting point metal bearing ore and left the bewildered ancient with a crude metal lump.

Metal Cutting

Most likely the first such metal would have been tin as this has the lowest melting point by far of all other common metals. At two hundred and thirty-two degrees centigrade the core of the fire would not have to be particularly hot to extract tin unlike iron which needs one thousand five hundred and thirty degrees to melt.

Metal Cutting

The melting point of metals vary a great amount and as the discovery of tin extraction became more and more understood and easier to achieve, the ancients of Mesopotamia and at the same time China, began looking for other metals. Tin was a useful metal but far too soft to create anything much more than plates, pots and ornaments. The next big step was the discovery of copper with tin deposits and this alloy we know of as bronze.

With a melting point of just under one thousand degrees centigrade, bronze could be fashioned into a much stronger finished product. For the first time metal swords and other weapons could be made as well as intricate jewellery mounted with precious stones.

Today bronze is still a valued alloy. With the addition of less than one per cent phosphor, the alloy can be easy to cast with an exceptionally smooth finish. This tough alloy known as phosphor bronze has a very low coefficient of friction making it ideal and nearly always the preferred metal of ships propellers. It has the additional property of not sparking which makes it ideal for electrical contacts. Screws made of phosphor bronze are used whenever there is the threat of electrical shorting and water.

Any metal can be heated to change its properties and every metal has some unique uses. Heat treatment of steel along with quick but not harsh cooling can toughen the original product. During heating magnetic alignments can be changed and this will also change the properties of the original.

Heat treatment is used to add subsidiary metals creating alloys for very specific uses. There are many types of aluminium alloys for specific purposes and NASA and European as well as Russian space agencies all use the same particular Aluminium alloy for their space craft.

Over thousands of years men have been making things out of pure metals and alloys. The values of all metals can change with the discovery of new uses. For example, when catalytic converters were first discovered in the late 1980s the catalyst used in the exhaust system to convert carbon monoxide into harmless air and water was a mix of palladium and rhodium. Prices of these two metals shot up in value and later when more cars were being produced globally with diesel engines, palladium dropped heavily as Platinum took over.

Changing Metal Properties With Heat Treatment

Metal Cutting

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Concrete Cutting - Adding a Pre-Cast Concrete Bulkhead to Your Home

Installing a pre-cast concrete stairway to your home's basement is actually quite an easy project for the advanced do-it-yourselfer or anyone that can coordinate a couple of sub contractors. Doing so will add a water tight weather proof egress to your basement that, in many cases, is necessary to comply with local building codes during a remodel. Either way, this newly added entrance will add much more function to your home and your basement.

Metal Cutting

First of all it is probably a good idea to explain what pre-cast concrete is. Pre-cast concrete is simply concrete that has been mixed, formed and vibrated in a very controlled "plant" type environment and then delivered or trucked to its final destination and installed. Despite the fact that some pre-cast concrete products are much thinner than conventional "poured in place" applications does not mean that the pre-cast products are any less quality and to the contrary they are usually much more durable.

Metal Cutting

In order to orchestrate this project you are going to need a hole dug, a doorway opening cut into your foundation and the actual pre-cast concrete bulkhead delivered and installed. Your first step is to locate a pre-cast concrete product dealer. A pre-cast concrete dealer can be located in your local phonebook, or better yet, your online yellow pages. Once you have located a reputable dealer you need to visit the pre-cast manufacturers showroom, which usually consists of a giant field full of stairs, bulkheads and culverts. You need to choose the size and style that is right for your project. A standard pre-cast bulkhead will generally cost less than 00 and this includes the steel bulkhead cover and installation.

Once you have chosen the right product be sure to ask for a worksheet or specification sheet that comes with your particular product. This "spec sheet" will tell you how much digging needs to be done and what size doorway your concrete cutter needs to cut in the foundation. The digging can be done using several methods. You can dig it by hand with a pick and shovel (not recommended), you can rent a small excavator (cost about 0) from a tool rental outfit and use the machine to dig it out or you can call a professional excavation contractor and have them dig it out for you (cost between 0 and 0). I highly recommend hiring a professional excavator for this part of the project. This process will take a professional less than a few hours and you can shop around for the best price. Please Note: Be sure to notify your areas "DIG SAFE" program and have them come out and locate any hidden underground utilities before you start your excavation. Also, keep in mind that your excavator will have to remove and dispose of about 50% of the dirt that he/she removes from the hole because the bulkhead to be installed will take up about that much volume of space. If this is not feasible, you may be able to use this dirt somewhere else on your property or you may be able to give it to one of your neighbors. Either way, fill dirt is a very needed and sought after commodity. Hence the old saying: Phil Dirt...the most wanted man in America.

Once the hole for your bulkhead has been successfully dug out and the portion of the foundation that needs to be cut is exposed you need to clearly layout your cut lines with a measuring tape, a bright yellow lumber crayon and a 4' level as instructed on the spec sheet. Now it is time to call a professional concrete cutter and find out what their pricing and availability is (cost is usually 5+/- to cut and drop the piece). They will charge you approximately an additional 0 to jack hammer the piece into manageable pieces and up to 0 to remove the piece from site. In order to avoid the break up an disposal charges, simply have your excavation contractor dig a "grave" for the concrete at the bottom of your excavation. This way you can just bury it and save yourself some time, money and hassles. Explain to the concrete cutter that you need a standard doorway for a bulkhead. Ask them how much they charge and when they can schedule your job. Ask them for a morning appointment. You are going to have to coordinate the concrete cutting and the bulkhead installation so that as soon as the concrete cutter is done the bulkhead is immediately installed. So you can now schedule your bulkhead delivery and installation for about 12 noon. Most pre-cast concrete product manufacturers will do the installation for you at no additional cost or it is included in the price.

I recommend calling each of your sub-contractors a day prior to their arrival just to verify that there are no scheduling conflicts. This will minimize the amount of problems that will occur and give you plenty of time to reschedule each subcontractor if one of them runs into a problem.

As soon as your bulkhead and metal bulkhead cover have been successfully installed you will need to "back fill" or replace the dirt that was removed from the hole. This can be done by hand with a shovel by an experienced "do it yourselfer" or you can make arrangements to have your excavation contractor return once the installation is complete and do the backfilling for you. It is always a good idea to allow this dirt to settle before adding your topsoil or planting any grass or flowers. The ground around the bulkhead should be settled pretty good after several heavy rain showers.

Well, good luck and if you choose to tackle this project congratulations. For more information on this subject just do a search for "pre-cast," "concrete cutting" or "bulkhead." As always please feel free to check out our website below.

(c) Copyright 2007 New Hampshire Concrete Cutting, Inc. All Rights Reserved

Concrete Cutting - Adding a Pre-Cast Concrete Bulkhead to Your Home

Metal Cutting

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Cutting Out Stencils For Decorative Painting

Cutting out stencils is the extra step of a cut-and-paint stencil design. Cut-and-paint stencils require you to actually cut out the openings (islands) where paint is applied. However, for the extra work, they provide some great advantages.

Metal Cutting

A cut-and-paint stencil design is usually printed on paper and so it can be reduced or enlarged to fit almost any project size. This is a big deal. If you like a Plastic Pre-Cut Stencil and it comes in two sizes -small at 2' and large at 4'- and the area you have for an image is 1' then the plastic stencil will not work for you. Take a cut-and-paint design to a copy machine and resize it to whatever your project area requires. Flexibility is great!

Metal Cutting

Also, cut-and-paint stencils are less expensive. You are not paying for the manufacture, warehousing and shipping of a product. If you can find downloadable stencil designs you can have your stencil immediately and no delay to your project. Just download the design and print out on your printer.

So far I referred to cutting out stencils on paper, but you have other options. You can purchase sheets of materials like acetate, mylar, wax paper, stencil film or clear overlays. These options allow you to create a permanent stencil that will be resistant to the penetration of oil, dyes, and water-base paints and ink. Simply trace your design onto the stencil film and cut.

You will find many options for materials useful in stencil making. They can be found at your local craft supply store, on line and office supply stores. You'll find it sold in letter size sheets or rolls for larger stencils. You may even find some clear sheets that will work in your printer or copy machine. When you are looking for a good film for making stencils, you want a material that will accept ink or marker so that you can trace onto it. Look for a matte finish. Also, a matter finish is best for the finished stencil because it will not encourage paint to seep under the edges.

Well on to the one disadvantage: Cutting the stencil.

If your paper stencils are in a book, I would recommend making a copy of each stencil overlay for the project you have chosen. By using the copies, your book and originals are preserved for future use. Don't forget that you can reduce or enlarge the size to fit the area you want to place the picture when you make copies.

Using a craft-knife cut out the objects on the stencil. Make sure your blade is sharp at all times. Dull blades may cause a paper stencil to tear or not go completely through plastic sheeting. The goal is to cut along each line only once with a firm, smooth motion. With your free hand, hold the stencil firmly and rotate the stencil so that you are always cutting with your wrist at a comfortable angle. This will help you maintain control over the blade and not veer off course.

When cutting past a thin bridge area carefully use a firm finger to hold down the paper. Try to keep your fingers well away from where you are cutting. If you are working with a multi-layer stencil don't forget to cut out the registration holes in each of the four corners, which will be used for the alignment of the stencil overlays.

As for recommendations on craft knives, I prefer an X-Acto knife with a #11 triangular blade. But an OLFA knife with the snap off blade refills is a fine option too. Again, just make sure the blade is sharp. Of course, be very careful when working with a blade and protect your fingers. Always be alert.

Well, I am sure that once you get the hang of cutting out stencils you will find the many advantages well worth the extra work. Happy Stenciling!

Cutting Out Stencils For Decorative Painting

Metal Cutting

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What's the Difference Between Laser Engraving, Laser Marking and Laser Cutting?

At first glance this seems like sort of a basic question, but these terms get interchanged all the time. If you think it through, this could cause confusion on both the buyer and the equipment provider sides, causing mistakes and mishaps in configuring the correct machine for the job.

Metal Cutting

I've been involved in the laser business since 1986, presently with Trotec, but previously with different types of laser companies who provide both standard and custom equipment for a wide variety of applications. In that time I have always worked closely with the Applications Technicians who are tasked with determining the feasibility of a project and specifying the correct process AND laser for the job. So this is what I learned from them over the years.

Metal Cutting

Laser Engraving
This is the most common term and simply defined, means that in the process of creating the mark, material is removed or vaporized during the process. An example in our business is CO2 laser engraving plastic for signage. This is often a two-ply plastic with one color called the "cap" laminated to a contrasting color called the "core". The engraving process removes the cap and exposes the core to create a sign that has an attractive look. There is also engraving in the processing of metals. Typically used to guarantee permanence, material is removed to create depth. Usually this is a process reserved for 1,064nm wavelength lasers (YAG for example) as those types of lasers couple well with metals. When engraving metals this way the laser is breaking the machined surface of the object, so oxidation or rusting can occur as a result. This would be a question at the time of feasibility testing. "Do you want depth? If so do you realize that the base material could oxidize? Depending on the answer the next option might be Laser Marking.

Laser Marking
Annealing or precipitation marking is commonly used when processing metal items where the surface of the part must stay intact. Often items like surgical implants, surgical instruments or high precision bearings require this type of marking. With laser marking, the heat of the laser actually redistributes the carbon in the material to create a jet black mark with only micron level surface disruption. If done correctly there will be no oxidation or rusting even under salt spray tests or autoclaving. Some plastics like ABS and Delrin also allow for a nice contrast when processed with a 1,064nm laser. If you processed the same material with a CO2 laser you would get an engraved marked with no contrast. This is all a matter of wavelength and how it reacts to the material OR the pigment in the material.

Laser Cutting
This is sometimes confused with laser engraving but really means totally sectioning a piece or cutting shapes directly through material. Most laser cutting is performed with CO2 lasers as again they interact with the material rather than the pigment within the material. We work a lot with acrylics which can be used for signage, retail displays and many other applications. While cutting, special attention is taken for smooth cuts and what is a called "flame polished edges". There are times where high powered, pulse YAGs are used for metal cutting but even with these materials, high powered CO2's seem to do the best job. In the cutting world, the other technology that is used is water jetting which also does a nice job on metal and stone. Cutting does not always mean thick materials though. Other common applications are paper cutting, leather sectioning and even things like gasket cutting.

So , in conclusion, understanding this basic terminology while you are shopping for a laser or a company to work with will go far to strengthen your communication with the vendor and will give him a better chance of meeting your needs and expectations.

What's the Difference Between Laser Engraving, Laser Marking and Laser Cutting?

Metal Cutting

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