Selling Gold Jewelry Tips - Tips to Get the Most Money For Your Gold

When I first started looking for selling gold jewelry tips, I came across a lot of confusing information, and quite frankly, I found a lot of garbage out there. My goal is to help you identify the resources that will help you get the most money for your gold jewelry if you are deciding to sell your jewelry for extra cash during these very difficult economic times. These are not tips to help you get the most money if you are looking to pawn your precious items. These tips will help you navigate some of the different options that you have when looking for the best place to sell your gold.

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Tip Number 1

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Think twice before selling your unwanted gold to pawn shops. Why, because this type of gold buyer is simply a middle-man that is making a profit off of your gold. The pawn shop will make the lowest offer possible for your gold so his profits will be maximized when the gold is resold to a refinery. I have absolutely nothing against pawn shops. Finding great buys in local pawn shops has been a hobby of mine for many years. If you want to find a great used home theater system, bicycle or lawnmower, go to a pawn shop and I am most certain that you will find a great buy for items like these. But if you are wanting to sell your gold and actually make a real profit, consider other options before selling your gold items to a pawn shop.

Tip Number 2

Hesitate before you run to your local jeweler to sell your unwanted gold. If you have a very nice piece of gold jewelry that is well made and has a lot of value as being a crafted piece of precious metal, then a jewelry store may be your best option. But if you have broken gold earrings or unwanted various gold items, local jewelry stores simply have no real interest in re-selling those types items. They may be willing to buy your scrap gold, but they are just not going to offer you very much money.

Tip Number 3

Think about finding an online gold buyer. If you have not heard of this type of gold buyer, let me fill you in on how they work. Typically you will navigate to their website where you will enter your information to receive a free mailing kit so you can send them your unwanted gold by mail. The different online gold buyers call it different things and describe it in different ways, but they basically offer the same service. Their overheads are low and many of them actually don't advertise a whole lot. Since their advertising costs and other overheads are low, they typically offer a higher cash payout for your gold than pawn shops or jewelry stores. Yep, it's as simple as that.

Selling Gold Jewelry Tips - Tips to Get the Most Money For Your Gold

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Christmas Sales Milwaukee 6370-20 13 Amp 8-Inch Metal Cutting Circular Saw 201

Dec 22, 2011 17:27:26

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Christmas Sales Milwaukee 6370-20 13 Amp 8-Inch Metal Cutting Circular Saw Feature

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6370-20 Model Code: AB (part# 6370-20) This item features: -Durable magnesium blade shield deflects hot metal chips and sparks. -Integral chip tank efficiently collects waste for easy clean-up. -Depth of cut is for one-pass through most metal stud, grating, panel, and decking. -Exclusive quick-release blade shield latch for convenient chip disposal and blade changes. -Convenient guard retraction lever for plunge cuts. -Blade Diam: 8 in. -Arbor Diam: 5/8 in. -Voltage: 120.00 VAC. -Amps: 13.00 A. -Speed: 3700 rpm [Max]. -Cutting Depth: 2 9/16 in [Max]. -Wt.: 13.30 lb. -Price is for 1 Each. Model Code  Model Description AAIncludes:Carbide Tipped Metal Cutting Blade, Carrying Case, Hex Blade Wrench ABIncludes:Carbide Tipped Metal Cutting Blade, Hex Blade Wrench

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Panasonic EY9PM17A 6 1/2-Inch 40-Teeth Metal Cutting Blade

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&quot;I Can Only Wear Gold Jewelry&quot; - The Truth About Jewelry Allergies

"I can only wear gold jewelry, everything else breaks me out." How many times did I hear that exact phrase from my mother when I was a child? Every time I would give her jewelry that was her response.

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Why does everything but gold break my mother out? Is that statement even true? When I started designing jewelry over a year ago I decided to find out. I wanted to design jewelry for my mom that she could wear without fear of a breakout. Now I am going to let you in on what I have discovered.

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My mother, like many people, develops contact dermatitis when her skin comes in contact with some types of jewelry. The dermatitis is a result of an allergic reaction to the nickel found in many types of jewelry. Nickel allergies are very common. One out of every seven people is likely to suffer from a nickel allergy. More women tend to suffer from nickel allergies than men. However this may be attributed to the fact that women tend to wear more jewelry than men and are therefore more likely to be exposed to skin contact with nickel.

Now that I knew what was causing my mother's breakout, I had to find out what types of jewelry metals did not contain nickel.

First I looked at gold jewelry. Generally speaking, yellow gold (above 14 karat) will not cause an allergic reaction. However white gold may. White gold alloys contain nickel and other "white" metals to produce its silver coloring. One out of every nine people will react to the nickel in white gold.

Another for of gold jewelry is gold filled or "GF" jewelry. Gold filled jewelry metal is created when a base metal is coated with a layer of gold. Gold filled differs from gold plated by the amount of gold applied. The layer used in gold filled jewelry is typically 50 to 100 time thicker that the layer used to coat gold plated products.

Next I looked at silver jewelry. For those who are nickel sensitive, fine silver and sterling silver are great choices for "white" metals.

Fine silver is by definition 99.9% pure silver. Jewelry is generally not made of fine silver because the metal is extremely soft and does not withstand normal wear and tear well.

Typically silver jewelry is made of sterling silver. Sterling silver is by definition 92.5% pure silver. Typically the remaining 7.5% metal is made up of copper. Copper is infused to harden the silver and make it more durable. Since copper is the normal metal used, sterling silver is a great metal for nickel allergic people. You can typically distinguish sterling silver by a "925" mark found on the jewelry. This is common on manufactured pieces, but may not be present on artisan jewelry.

Some other metals that are considered safe for people with nickel allergies are:

Copper - Copper jewelry is generally considered pure and not mixed with nickel or nickel alloys.

Platinum - Platinum jewelry contains 95% platinum and 5% of a secondary metal typically iridium.

Titanium - Titanium jewelry is both hypoallergenic and durable. It is a highly recommended metal for those who suffer from nickel allergies.

Since I have given you a list of safe metals, I thought I would also give you a list of metal terms to watch out for when you are shopping for jewelry.

Fashion or costume jewelry typically contains base metals that include nickel.

German silver or nickel silver is a metal to stay away from where jewelry is concerned. German silver does not contain any silver. The silver refers to the silver coloration of the metal. The color is derived from a combination of nickel, zinc, lead, and tin found within the alloy.

Surgical or stainless steel - Surgical grade stainless steel is made to be in the human body. However, the steel alloy contains between eight and twelve percent nickel. I have heard varying reports as to how safe this metal is for people with nickel allergies. Since the steel alloy does contain nickel, I would tend to avoid it, but some people swear by it.

If you do buy a piece of jewelry and are concerned that it may contain nickel, commercial test kits are available online. These kits contain chemicals that react in the presence of nickel.

Doing a little research can prevent a nickel allergy attack and still allow you to wear any fashion.

"I Can Only Wear Gold Jewelry" - The Truth About Jewelry Allergies

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Starting a Mobile Locksmith Business

One of the best decisions I ever made in my 62 years of life on this planet was to become my own boss in a field that is never dull, always challenging, and intrinsically interesting. It was not an early decision. In fact it did not occur to me to enter this field until after I'd already spent ten years as a professional photographer. It came about in an odd way, as many serendipitous things do. But regardless of how it came to be, I consider that decision the one that paved the way for me to spend the rest of my working life in comfort and with a good measure of security.

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I've since discovered that many people follow a similar course, turning to locksmithing only after finding themselves unhappy in other jobs. I'm not sure how or why so many discover this particular business when looking for an interesting career. In my case it was a natural progression from a rather unique part-time career I had fashioned for myself: That of installing simple door viewers and doing this door to door. Many times my customers would ask if I could install deadbolts for them while I was at it, and after turning down money a dozen or so times I finally got wise and visited a local locksmith supplier who sold me an install kit and a book of instructions. From what I can tell, others come across this idea by doing Internet searches for home businesses, because ultimately this qualifies as such if you, like I do, run it out of your home and structure it as a Sole Proprietorship. In any case, it is obvious that locksmithing has become a popular choice for a chance at self-employment.

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After tiring of door to door selling (which didn't take long to do) I hit upon the idea of cold calling. I was still thinking too small, but at the time I didn't know it. Lesson Number One: Don't do this. I was doing it back in 1981 or so when the stigma attached to such endeavors wasn't quite so strong. I'm afraid that calling people out of the phone book and asking if they'd like to have deadbolts installed just would not fly in the present era of terrorism and business rip-offs.

Still, I owe to this period of hard knocks a good deal. I became efficient at installing locks, rekeying locks, and duplicating keys. It was during this one year period that I scrounged together enough money to purchase a small key duplicator and also a lock rekeying kit. I carried these items in the trunk of my car and carried them into my customer's home when needed. I also purchased several boxes of the most common domestic key blanks and by the time I'd accumulated all this stuff my car's trunk was crammed and I was wishing for more room. Also, and most important, I came to realize that driving around in an unmarked car and working out of the trunk was not lending itself well to my credibility.

Lesson Number Two: Start out with credibility. Purchase a small work van, or a large one if you can afford it. Buy signs or have signs painted on it. Use whatever lending power you have, may it be with banks or with family, to locate a used vehicle and have signage made up, even if this is in the form of magnetic signs. Of course all this suggests you start out as a legitimate business, and this is just my point. Create a name for your business (think long and hard about this, as you'll lose any credibility you might initially gain if you keep changing it), have signs and forms and letterheads made up, and dive in.

There is, too, the question of legality. This is a hard subject to field, because the legality of doing business from one jurisdiction to another can differ widely, and even wildly. It is incumbent upon you to do the research and determine whether or not your jurisdiction requires a locksmith be certified, bonded, and/or licensed. You'll almost certainly discover that licensing is the fundamental hurdle, and that is usually taken care of with the signing of a few forms and the payment of a small annual fee. Certification is something else. Not all jurisdictions require this. In my case I found that the state in which I was then living -- Utah -- did not require it. Nor was I required to be bonded, though I chose to do so for the added protection (it is widely and incorrectly thought that bonding protects the locksmith's customer, whereas in fact it is the locksmith that is protected by the bond).

Lesson Number Three: Do the homework required to determine if acquiring a business license is all that is needed to establish your locksmith service. One phone call to your state's Attorney General office will likely answer that question.

Once you have lined up an affordable vehicle and put a reasonably professional sign on it, you must begin outfitting it. This should, and must, be done before you begin advertising your services because if you are like I was at this point you know next to nothing about the business and not much more about the work. We will endeavor at this point to educate ourselves. Locksmithing is in point of fact one of the few professions left in this world in which a formal education is absolutely UNnecessary. I have spoken to very few professionals during my career who got to be that way through going to a 'locksmith school' or a college. This is certainly not to say that a formal education isn't desirable. If you can afford it, if you have the means, then by all means take that route. This article is for those of you who can't.

The vehicle you purchase will in large part determine how it is to be equipped. I've always preferred a full-size van (I've owned Ford, Chevy and GMC models during my career), but there are many locksmiths who just love the Astro Van or Safari Van made by GM. These minivans are popular with many different professions and are ubiquitous. You can undoubtedly find one in your price range. Either way, the first order of business is to erect a work bench that will give you as much space as possible. Best to have the bench on one side of the van and leave the opposite side for shelves or storage bins. Make it sturdy! There is nothing worse than a wobbly bench when you're trying to rekey locks. Make it level for the same reason.

You'll need a power source. It is excusable to string extension cords until you can afford something better, but bear in mind that this detracts from your professionalism. The ultimate is probably having a RediLine Generator that runs off your van's 12V power. This is not a power inverter, it is actually a generator and it kicks out 110-115V power. They are wonderful sources of AC power and you can even run a bank of flourescent lamps off one of these for your interior shop lighting. There are several models to choose from with varying outputs, but they are expensive. If you can locate a rebuilt, so much the better. A good inverter might do the trick if you can't afford a RediLine, but be careful. Some key machines (and you're going to have to have one) will not run with an inverter.

Power now available, you need to start out with at least a key duplicator on your bench and preferably, as well, a good code cutting machine. The latter is desirable but not necessary in the beginning unless you plan to launch directly into automotive locksmithing, in which case you'll find it hard to get along without one. We'll touch on that in a moment. Key machines are almost impossible to find used. You'll likely end up buying a small HPC Speedex because they're pretty much the least expensive good key duplicator around. Expect to pay around 0. Best if you include this in your initial loan. A key duplicator is bread and butter for any locksmith, mobile or otherwise, so don't even think about starting up until you have one.

Equip yourself with a good rekeying kit. I've always preferred 'universal' kits because they do the work of dozens of other keyway-specific kits and they are easy to use. LAB makes the best of these, hands down. If you have the space, try to get a metal Classic Kit. If you don't, you can start out with one of LAB's Mini-Durex kits or, better, the miniature version of the Universal Kit (LMK-005 or LMK-003). You simply can't rekey locks without one, and if you get a Universal you won't be confined to keying up one or two brands . . . you'll be able to handle them all. Don't know how to rekey locks? Pick up an instruction manual on the Internet or at Amazon.com. They are available and this is one of the quickest locksmith skills to pick up. While you're at it, buy at least one plug follower, a pair of pin tweezers, and ideally a pair of TruArc pliers. Over time you'll accumulate more rekeying tools but these fundamentals are nearly essential.

Even before I was making money rekeying locks, I was being called to open cars. If you intend to advertise yourself as an emergency service, you're going to have to take in this kind of lucrative work. Let me tell you now, this will be the easiest money you've ever made. It is well worth learning the skills required to open vehicles even if it means spending a couple of hundred dollars on tools and a good manual. Lockouts, at least in my case, virtually supported me for years. If you live in a medium to large city, count on getting lockout calls day and night even if you have only a tiny ad somewhere (a subject for later). There are many good lockout kits available online, to suit any budget, and the same goes for lockout manuals. Do a Google search for 'car opening tools' or 'lockout tools' and you'll have no trouble finding suppliers. Are they legal where you live? Again . . . this is up to you to determine. The supplier cannot and will not endeavor to police this aspect of marketing, as it is simply not possible. I'm not advocating the purchase of anything that is not legal where you reside!

House and business lockouts are likewise lucrative sources of income for the locksmith, but these require different skills, different tools. Here is where it becomes necessary to learn the skill of lock picking -- probably the most fundamental skill of the trade. It is not as easy to learn as car opening and lock rekeying, but it is by no means difficult, either. It requires practice and patience, and it requires good tools. Do not get stingy here. There are lots of cheap lock picking tools for sale. You'll find them in automotive magazines, even. Stick with tools from the established firms like HPC, SouthOrd, Lockmasters, etc. Purchase a beginner's set with a few picks and one or two tension tools for start, unless you have a big budget, then go for a set that will last you a while. Choice of spring steel or stainless steel is largely a matter of personal choice. Whichever one you start out with will likely be the kind you'll stay with, because you'll form an attachment to that type and you'll train yourself to make the best of it. More important is the concept of practice. Buy Practice Locks. Once you've picked all the locks in your home you're going to need more challenges, and now that Practice Locks are an accepted training aid in this field you'd do well to pick up a few of them. Practice until you can repeatedly pick the most challenging of your Practice Locks and then practice some more.

Did I mention that servicing lockouts will likely be the single most lucrative service you offer your customers? I thought so. Good!

There are other aspects to providing a locksmith service and among these is the ability to install locksets on homes and businesses. Primarily you'll be asked to install deadbolts, but later on, as your business gets bigger, you'll want to offer commercial business and real estate companies the option of replacing all their old lock hardware for newer more secure hardware. Again, practice is called for and you should be prepared to install a few unnecessary deadbolts and knobsets on doors in your own home that don't need them. After doing this a dozen or so times, it will be easy to go to that first installation with confidence. You'll need to add a few essential tools to your toolbox, such as a 1/2 inch drill, a couple of hole saws (2-1/8 inch and 1-inch), a 1/2 inch boring bit, and a good wood chisel. With these tools, you can install deadbolts in metal or wood doors. Complete installation kits are available and are the best choice if you can work them into your budget. Need instruction? Books galore available on Amazon.com or at any large scale bookstore in your city.

Once you've accumulated vehicle and the tools, and some knowledge gleaned from practice and reading, you can start thinking about getting your feet wet. The best way to start is the old fashioned way and that is to appeal to family and friends for work and for referrals. Network. Talk to everyone you know and let them know you're serious about this and that you are available. Step two is to advertise and this is absolutely necessary, even if you start out only as a listing in the Yellow Pages. This is where 99% of the people who need a locksmith will look. Newspaper ads, flyers (Yucchhh!), direct mail and radio ads don't work for locksmiths unless you have one enormous budget. Try to justify a small one-eight or one-quarter page Yellow Page ad if at all possible. Even in the face of huge competition, you will get calls and over time your name will be spread around, if you do a good job. Well, it will get spread around if you don't, as well, but you'd do well to avoid that.

That's how I did it. That's how thousands of others have done it, give or take a detail or two. Be sure to cover the legal bases, because if you jump into it and find later that you're acting outside the law, don't come to me! This is part of your research. It is not that difficult to acquire a certification and satisfy local laws that may pertain to this business. If you keep the business small, and maintain yourself as a sole owner, you're going to be profiting right off the bat because overhead with a mobile service is nil.

It's within your reach whether you're 18 or 58.

Starting a Mobile Locksmith Business

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3 Easy to Make Meatloaf Recipes

Here are 3 different, easy to make, recipes for meatloaf.

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Meatloaf Recipe 1

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Ingredients:

2 Eggs

1/2 cup water

Two tablespoons of soy sauce

1 small onion diced

2 Lbs. ground beef

8oz package of pre-made stuffing, (such as Stove Top)

salt & pepper to taste

Directions:

Preheat Oven to 350°F

Beat eggs, water, and approximately two tablespoons of soy sauce together in a separate bowl and set aside.

Get a large bowl and mix the ground beef and stuffing together. Make sure to use your hands and combine the mixture well, as this is the most important step.

Slowly work the egg mixture into the meat and stuffing, once again making sure to combine all ingredients well.

Pick up big ball of meat and pack in hands until you have formed a loaf.

Place in ungreased loaf pan and place on center rack in oven for 45-55 minutes uncovered until center of meatloaf is browned. Drain excess grease off side of pan and let stand 5-10 minutes before cutting and serving.

Meatloaf Recipe 2

Ingredients:

1 onion, chopped

1-2 celery stalks, chopped

1 cup cracker crumbs

1 clove garlic, diced

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon allspice

sprinkle of curry powder

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

2 eggs

2 lbs. ground beef

1-2 cans of mushroom soup

Makes 1 bread pan of meat loaf

Directions:

Mix meat, eggs, and spices

Mix in vegetables and crackers

Bake at 400°F

Drain off grease when brown 10-20 minutes

Add 1-2 cans of mushroom soup on top

Bake until done

Total baking time 1.5-2 hours

Meatloaf Recipe 3

Ingredients:

1 1/2 pounds of ground beef

1 cup Ritz crackers

2 beaten eggs

8 ounces Del Monte tomato sauce

1/2 cup fine onion

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Pound the Ritz crackers until fine like bread crumbs.

Mince the onion until fine.

In a separate bowl, add the meat and the other ingredients and mix with your hands until the ingredients are all mixed together and the mixture is smooth.

Grease a glass baking pan with vegetable shortening.

Put the meat mixture in the pan and shape like a football.

Bake in the oven for 1 hour.

Take out the meat loaf and serve warm.

3 Easy to Make Meatloaf Recipes

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Prefabricated Home Packages

This is by no means an exhaustive list of what's available in the area of prefabricated homes and buildings. This article is to introduce you to the world prefab. If you're in the industry, you'll probably be cringing about now at the word "prefab". But, the word is one that has become synonymous with homes and buildings that have been partially or fully assembled in a factory setting.
I for one am excited to see the latest versions of modern prefabs emerging globally. They're well thought out, beautiful, and energy-efficient.

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And to anyone who has any doubts about the quality of today's prefab homes, I'd ask, would you rather buy a house whose parts have all been crafted outdoors exposed to the elements -- by hand. Or, would you rather buy a house built in a factory setting to tight specs exceeding that of site-built homes. I say exceeding, because a normal site-built home doesn't have to endure the rigors of transportation.

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For your review, here are quick descriptions of 10 of the many categories of prefab homes available for exploring at http://PrefabExpo.com - in no particular order:

1. Manufactured

Single-family residential dwellings consisting of one, two or more sectional units and constructed to Federal HUD code. Zoning regulations and ordinances of the local Municipality or County might not permit use of mobile and manufactured homes in all areas of their jurisdiction.

2. Modular

Modular refers to a method of building a home, rather than a type of home. A modular home can be built in a factory from a stock modular home plan or from a customized plan, to the state, local or regional codes of where the home will be set up. Modular homes have not typically experienced the zoning restrictions and discriminative ordinances applicable to manufactured and mobile homes.

3. Panelized

Panelized homes are factory-built homes in which panels -- whole walls with windows, doors, wiring, and outside siding -- are transported to the site and assembled. Panels are made from insulating foam sandwiched between two layers of structural material. The panels are lightweight and might already be filled with insulation when they arrive on the site. The homes must meet the state or local building codes of where they are sited.

4. Steel-frame

Steel framing is an equivalent to conventional stick frame or post & beam home design where the structural lumber is replaced by steel studs and trusses or steel posts and beams. Light-Gauge Framing System features screw-together, galvanized stud-and-truss, grid-type construction system built on 4-foot center.Red-Iron Metal Post & Beam Systems features bolt-together, pre-engineered post-and-beam-type framing system that uses the red-iron steel "C" beams on 8-foot center. The prefabricated home built with this method can be single-story, two-story, and even tri-level home.
Unlike conventional wood framed home that requires interior walls to support the roof, the higher strength-to-weight ratio of steel house allows to span greater distances with less material and fewer supports. The result is higher floor layout and interior design flexibility.

Unlike wood, steel won't shrink, rot, warp, buckle, split, or be attacked by insects. This results in greater durability, lower long-term maintenance, higher energy efficiency and overall greater quality of this prefabricated home.

5. Precut

This category includes wood-framed factory-built houses or cabins where building materials are factory-cut to design specifications and transported to the site to be assembled. PrefabExpo.com presents prefab building kits designed as wood-framed (also known as balloon-frame, 2 x 4, 2 x 6 or stick-built construction) as well as prefabricated home kit / cabin kit using post-frame method. The homes or cabins must meet local or state building codes of the area where they will be sited.

6. Cedar

According to Katahdin Cedar Log Homes, cedar is aromatic to people, and problematic to insects: The heartwood of northern white cedar produces organic compounds called thujaplicins - which create that fresh, pleasant cedar aroma. But to insect pests, such as moths and termites, cedar just plain stinks. They'll avoid cedar homes and instead search out inviting, tasty pine structures.

Cedar home kits include everything you need to build the home, itself. That is to say, the walls, the floor, the ceiling, the windows and doors. But your foundation, plumbing and electrical system are not usually included in a kit.

7. Timberframe

Timber framing is a specific type of post and beam construction in which a frame is created from solid wood timbers that are then connected by any one of the following wooden joints: mortise and tenon, dovetails, or scarfs secured with hardwood pegs. The frame is covered with any one of a number of enclosure systems. Normally the timbers remain exposed to the interior of the building.

Timber frame structures exhibit a strength and aesthetic quality not found in conventionally framed houses. The timbers are pre-cut, shaped, and finished at the factory, then sent to the construction site, where they can be quickly assembled by a crew, routinely using cranes to lift the bents and beams into place. The use of quality wood, enhanced by joinery that compares with fine cabinet making, maximizes the strength of the timberframe structure. Joinery is the heart of the entire structure.

8. Log

Log homes provide their owners with a comforting and relaxing sense of informality and simplicity. The mass of logs produces heating and cooling benefits, and reduces noise transmission into and throughout the home. These are very attractive characteristics, but there are also challenges in construction and limitations in decorating. These aspects require special design considerations and have unusual maintenance requirements.
Basic Kits Are...

WALLS ONLY: The walls-only log home package includes all the logs for the outside walls, including fasteners. Roof beams and staircases may be added.

STRUCTURAL SHELL: Shell This package includes everything that's in the walls-only package, plus all components necessary to keep the weather out, such as exterior doors, windows, and the roofing system.

THE COMPLETE PACKAGE: Complete packages also includes interior components required to finish log homes. Such items include interior walls, stairs, closets, interior doors and trim.

9. Circular

The circle is the strongest geometrical shape we recognize, and this factor likely influenced builders of circular homes for thousands of years. Prefabricated circular buildings have been built as cabins, studios, homes, offices or community halls and convention centers.
Most of today's prefabricated circular homes and cabins offered across the country use conventional wood-frame or post & beam construction method. These homes and cabins are ideally suited to take the full advantage of locations offering exciting panoramic views, and to incorporate factor of the surroundings into the home design.

10. Dome

Geodesic Dome is using triangular networks forming hexagons and pentagons and creating a free-span, spacious environment of spherically shaped structure requiring no internal supports. This results in large flexibility for utilizing interior space to implement floor designs not limited by structural restrictions. Because of the structural strength of the shape, the domes have a far better record of withstanding tornados, hurricanes and earthquakes than cube-shaped structures of conventional homes.
Advantages...

MATERIAL COSTS: Geodesic domes provide the greatest amount of floor area with the least amount of surface area, reducing the quantity of needed building material by as much as 30-50%.

ENERGY EFFICIENCY: As a result of the shape, the dome has approximately 30-50% less roof and wall area than cube-shaped home of equal floor space. This results in lesser area being exposed to the elements, resulting in reduction in heating and cooling costs of dome shaped structures. Also, the spherical shape of the dome facilitates natural air flow yielding more even temperatures maximizing overall interior temperature comfort.

Disadvantages...

As a result of complicated angles, the interior and exterior finishing of the dome (after speedy assembly of the prefabricated shell) is significantly more labor intensive than finishing the conventional house. Also, the finishing work requires highly skilled or specialized tradesmen which might not be available at every location. These factors might present welcoming challenge for skilled handyman - homebuilder, but would create substantial cost outlay if the hired labor is considered.

Prefabricated Home Packages

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Christmas Sales Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) 201

Dec 17, 2011 19:57:56

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Christmas Sales Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Feature

• Cuts all types of metals such as uni-strut, galvanized pipe and metal studs
• 3,200 RPM and 2-1/8-inch maximum depth of cut
• Clear guard provides an excellent line of sight for cutting
• Rugged construction for long, trouble-free operation
• Limited warranty

Christmas Sales Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Overview

Tool includes: 6 7/8" blade. However 6 1/2" blade also work fine with this circular saw. Metal Cutting Saw, 6320-20, cuts all types of metals such as uni-strut, galvanized pipe, metal studs and black pipe, as well as Hardi-Plank and Durock materials. The saw uses a standard 5/8 in. arbor and has a 2-1/8 in. maximum depth of cut. The blade spins at 3,200 RPM and has an electric brake for quick, repetitive cutting. The clear guard provides an excellent line of sight for cutting and the rugged construction provides long, trouble-free operation.

Christmas Sales Bare-Tool Milwaukee 6320-20 18-Volt Ni-Cad 6-1/2-Inch Cordless Metal Cutting Circular Saw (Tool Only, No Battery) Specifications

Metal’s no challenge for this little Milwaukee brute, slicing quickly through everything we put it to: unhardened ferrous metal, non-ferrous metal, plastics and cement board. Power is plentiful, with an 18-volt battery juicing the blade’s 3,200 rpm. We were surprised at how quickly the electric brake halts the blade, too: In our very unscientific test, it was about a second and a half, great for repetitive cuts and even more important for safety. The blade guard is clear, and you do get a great sightline because of it, but it is plastic, and we didn’t want to take our chances slamming it around the warehouse to see what kind of impact it would withstand. A little care is a small price for a much-improved view, we think. It’s lighter than we expected by the rugged look of it, so it handles beautifully, and the ergonomic D-handle grip feels great. If you’re in plumbing, construction, maintenance or even fire and rescue, you ought to have this saw.--Kris Jensen-Van Heste

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How to Install Metal Roofing

Let's start with one simple rule for people who want to install metal roofing. If you cannot easily walk on the roof because it's too steep, call a professional. Now that the rule is out of the way, if you want to have it but can't afford what the professionals have bid, here's how to install it.

Metal Cutting

First the proper tools are needed. These are a measuring tape, a chalk line with plenty of chalk, a good drill, a safe extension ladder and a good, sturdy step ladder, ½ pound of ¼ inch roofing nails, metal roofing screws, metal snips, and a cloth nail bag to hold the nails and screws.

Metal Cutting

Measure the roof's height and add the desired overhang, generally two to four inches. Take accurate measurements keeping in mind the handy man's mantra "measure twice, cut once." Next measure the roof's length and height on both sides to figure out how much metal edging is needed. Take these measurements to your roofing supply company. They will tell you how much to purchase. Remember that three to six inches of unblocked air flow is needed between layers.

Although it isn't necessary to remove the old one before laying down a metal roof, it is best. Use a pitch fork, roofing shovel, or roofing pliers to remove old shingles . Then lay down 30 pound tar paper to serve as the base for the new roof. If there's only one layer of shingles on the old one, lay down 1"x4"x building length pine wood boards screwed onto the old shingles. Apply edging once the metal roof is prepared.

Start placing the metal sheets running from top to bottom. Screw them into the wood slats, using a screw every two feet on both sides of the sheet. Each sheet should overlap the last. When you reach the edge cut the last metal sheet so it's just past the edge of the roof.

When the sheets are applied to both sides of the roof, apply the metal trim along the edges at the sides of the roof. The trim also goes on the peak, first scoring it in the middle so it can be bent over the peak.

Of course these instructions are useful only for installing the standard type of tin barn roof seen in industrial buildings, garages and the like. Other types require different methods for installation. But those can be tackled equally as well by a do it yourself person who wants to install metal roofing.

How to Install Metal Roofing

Metal Cutting

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